What would Jane Austen do in Bath?

As you may know I love Jane Austen novels. So upon visiting Bath last weekend I undertook a list of things that an Austen heroine would do on a regular day.

•  Visit the Thermae Spa – would Jane spa?

The Thermae Spa in Bath is a natural mineral-enriched thermal spa. It's also mixed sex and, rather surprisingly, has a unisex change room! This would be utterly unacceptable in Austen’s time! 

In the modern world though, going to the spa is the ultimate retreat for pure, blissful relaxation. A two hour session at the spa costs £24 – which gives you access to all the pools and the steam rooms.

Although the temperature of the pools is comfortably warm I expected it to be hotter. It is less ‘onsen’ and more, well, ‘Bath’. The best pool is on the rooftop. Even though you shiver in your bathers once exiting the lift, you can plunge right into the steaming pool which looks over the rooftops of the city.

Once you’re done with the pools simply head to the different scented steam rooms – our favourite was peppermint. You can also dunk your toes into a cool footbath or step under the glowing jet showers.

• Have a traditional English Sunday lunch

Roaring fire, check. Roast lamb with potatoes and gravy, check. Mulled wine, check. At the Nineteenth House we indulged in traditional Sunday lunch fare enjoying pan fried bubble and squeak and grilled haddock and bubble as well. It was a bubbly, heartwarming meal in a very cozy pub that had a gorgeous Christmas tree.

•       Visit no.40 Gay Street

This the address of the Jane Austen centre. It’s terribly corny in some parts but also pays a respectful homage to Jane. The giftshop sells I Love Mr Darcy bags…I confess that I bought one…

•      Indulge in an afternoon tea

Afternoon tea is a ritual not to be missed, even if you have had a big lunch. At Sally Lunn’s I had the Jane Austen cream tea – which is a Sally Lunn bun with raspberry jam and clotted cream accompanied by a refreshing house tea. As ladies we sipped our tea, delicately ate our buns and we did not, I repeat did not, finish all our clotted cream.

Wanderlust Wednesday - Sally Lunn Bun in Bath

This Sally Lunn bun from Bath is drenched in cinnamon butter. The sweetened clotted cream  bun is the perfect condiment and melts in your mouth. You may only get half a bun but it's certainly bigger than it looks! And, of course, all you need is a pot of tea. 

The Beautiful Bath Christmas Markets

The city of Bath is full of old world charm. When you walk the streets, you feel like you should be hoisting up your parasol, wearing a bonnet and curtseying when you greet your neighbours. You may even feel like you’re a character in Jane Austen’s Persuasion.

The UNESCO World Heritage city is full of historical sandstone buildings and is framed in a small valley. On a crisp winter’s day, we were blessed with blue skies despite a 3 hour bus journey from London through foggy roads.

Once we escaped London we were pleasantly greeted by the relaxed pace in Bath on a sunny Sunday. In Bath people seem happier, they are in no rush and the main streets are full of families, couples and, surprisingly, lots of young people.

The Christmas markets in Bath stand in the shadow of Bath Abbey. In the Abbey churchyard there are over 100 stalls selling arts and crafts, foodstuffs, wines and liquers. We indulged in the free samples, savouring cheese and chocolate and the incredibly decadent toffee pudding for only £4 from Devon. I purchased Lick the Spoon chocolates, two packs of a set of three cinnamon infused, chocolate covered spoons and a chocolate star ornament for £10 – for a sweet Secret Santa.

Christmas carols echoed through the churchyard sung by the harmonious local choir. As dusk began, the lights framing the streets glowed and the Christmas tree in the centre of the square sparkled.

 

It may have been cold outside, but Bath certainly warmed us with the Christmas spirit and also with a glass of mulled wine. 

Oh Bath Christmas tree, we love thee!

In Search of Jane - Pieces of Jane Austen in London

It is a truth universally acknowledged that a Jane Austen fan must visit Bath when living in England. Jane lived in Bath from 1801-1806 and it was the setting for her novels Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. I’m heading to Bath tomorrow and am very excited.

In the past few months since living here, I’ve come across pieces of Austen in museums around London.

In the National Portrait Gallery one of the only real paintings of Austen is on display. The pencil and watercolour by her sister Cassandra is very small and you have to peer into the glass case to get a good look.

At the British Library, you can see handwritten notes from Austen’s notebook and the place of her creative expression - her wooden writing desk in the Sir John Ritblat Gallery: Treasures of the
British Library: Literary manuscripts and printed books permanent exhibition.

When in London Jane Austen stayed in Covent Garden with her brother at No. 10 Henrietta Street. Today this address is an outdoor clothing store.

Of course it’s terribly cold to be searching for Austen at the moment. Without leaving the warmth of your home, you can see her own account of the 'History of England' penned when she was only 15 in the online collection of the British Library. 

How would Jane Austen cope with this cold London weather?